Creating products: Labels!

We don't necessarily think of labelling our products as being an essential part of product creation, but when you accidentally use mentholated foot lotion as a facial moisturizer, you'll realize that we must label everything!

Original post from January 24, 2010...Why you must label everything! 

Look at the picture to the left. Look at the picture to the right. If the sun wasn't shining through the window and you were using the same bottles, the products would look very much the same. The one on the left is leave in conditioner. The one on the right is summer time peppermint spray.

So in my eagerness to be more organized this morning, I decided to add the tiny bit of leave in conditioner in one bottle with the larger bottle. It wasn't until I smelled mint after my shower that I realized what I had done!

In this case, the mint spray has many of the same ingredients I would put into a leave in conditioner - panthenol, hydrosols, hydrolyzed proteins - so really the only down side is the fresh scent of mint that follows me instead of oatmeal, milk & honey (which smells a lot like marzipan to me - and I love marzipan!).

Again, I can't stress this enough - label everything!

When I'm making a prototype recipe for myself, I like to include the name of the product, a few ingredients, and the date I made it for future reference. I might include something like "especially for mom" or "great for Raymond", so the intended user knows it's for them. I recognize these aren't pretty labels - my handwriting is terrible and the layer of packing tape will come off eventually - but it is the best way to track which products I'm liking this week!

From the post originally written on December 9, 2010...Some ideas on how to make labels! 

Tara made this comment in this post: I love the pictures you post of your products. Maybe somewhere down the road, you could do a post on label making.


I admit the aesthetics of our products is not one of my strengths. I'm the mechanic - I figure out the formulas, create the recipes, tweak the products, and so on - and despite my love of English, I suck at creating cute or interesting names. And don't get me started on my inability to take nice photographs! But I do like to create what I consider nice labels.

I consider putting labels on my products essential because I need to know which version of which product I'm using. I generally write out the labels by hand for around the house (which is why you don't see a lot of them), but when I'm gifting my products, I want to make my labels lovely (and believe me, my handwriting is neither lovely nor legible).

I generally invest in full sheet labels because I can put a ton of different labels on one sheet and cut them out when I feel like it. Ensure you have the right type for your printer - you can use laser labels on inkjet, but you can't use inkjet on a laser printer. If you can't get the full sheet labels or don't feel like cutting them all out, I find the 4 x 2 shipping labels to be the most multifunctional for my needs because I can make them smaller as necessary. I've tried Avery and I've tried generic Staples' labels - the Staples' ones were just awful and I took them back the next day, so I have to suggest Avery.

I use Printshop for the Mac for my labels, but you can use any program that makes labels in the right size. Microsoft Word works okay, but I've found it can sometimes be a little off and you have to make sure your labels are well within the boundaries when you're creating them on the screen. (Your experience may vary by printer and ability to make a nice label!)

I can't draw or design a label to save my life, so I find interesting backgrounds, wallpapers (computer and real life), or pictures of fabrics to create a nice backdrop. Digital scrapbooking papers are fantastic for backgrounds, and you can find some great free kits out there. I love the Shabby Princess downloads and I covet the Pixel Decor tiles (very retro!). I collect fonts, and I admit I tend towards the retro. You can find great free fonts at the Font Diner (I love the diner fonts and holiday leftovers!) and Dafont.com for my fonts, but you can find some great ones at scrapbooking sites.

When you're gifting a product, you don't need to use the INCI names because that can get a little confusing for your giftee. I tend to use the proper names for things like my oils, but I will use the generic name for my surfactants. I will put in brackets what the ingredient might be - for instance, liquid Germall Plus (preservative) - because I want my giftee to know what's in the product and I won't assume they know Latin!

Click here and here to learn more about INCI names. These are essential for those of you who sell or are considering selling your products! If you're making products for sale, ensure you are following the labelling laws in your county, state, province, area, region, or country! And make sure you're using royalty free images. 

There are a few ways to make your labels waterproof. I used to have an Epsom printer with waterproof inks and they worked really well. But I've switched to to a Canon Pixma ($30 for an all in one!) and the ink runs. So I use the Krylon product Make it Last, clear sealer, to keep my labels pretty in the shower or bath. I make up my labels, spray them, wait about 10 minutes, then put them on my bottles. (I found mine at Michael's, but apparently you can get it at art stores!)

And now we come to cleaning bottles. I spray mine with rubbing alcohol, wait a second or two, then wipe it off with a paper towel. This ensures you don't have any surfactants or oils or other stuff that will get in the way of the product sticking.

Original post from December 10, 2010...An example of how I create labels. 

So here's an example of a label I use on my foot scrub bars. I package these in cellophane bags and close it with the label.

I like to include three major pieces of information - the name of the product and fragrance, instructions for use (if it isn't obvious), and a simplified ingredient list. (If you're selling your products, the simplified list isn't an option - please check your local authorities for their requirements.)

I try to use a really legible font for the instructions and ingredient list - in this case, I'm using American Typewriter in 8 point - with a cute font for the name. I generally make the background a little more opaque - I turn the opacity on the picture to 50% to 70%, depending upon the colour scheme - and I tend to make the background for the instructions and ingredient list white so it's easy to read.

Why the instructions? Sometimes it isn't obvious what to do with a product - I've seen the foot scrub bar and my sugar scrub used as facial products, despite the description of what it is and the instructions - so I find it best to include some guidelines on usage, especially for something like a foot scrub bar where someone could use it in the shower and slip! I like to write a little story in this section, something to whet the user's interest, and I tend to use a ton of adjectives (which might be a little cheesy, but anyone who knows me knows I love cheesiness!).

Here's an example of my Manly Man Body Wash label. I put the ingredients on a little label I put on the back of the bottle so as to preserve the minimalist nature of the presentation. I figure men aren't into hearts and flowers so much, and I needed a label that shouted "I am body wash! Use me and smell manly!" I think this might be my favourite label.

I do have a girls' version of the Super Girl Action Wash with the warning that it "should only be used by girls who want to be super heroes when they grow up!" because I figure we all secretly long for an invisible airplane and lasso or a stake like Mr. Pointy and the ability to take on six ninjas in a fight without breaking a nail.

Original post from January 3, 2011...Downloadable labels

I've been asked to post my recent labels as a PDF, so here you are. (I have instructions on how to modify them in the PDF). I don't know how useful they will be as they are designed to fit on the bottles I own, but if you like them, then I'm a happy camper!

It's so much easier to use the laser printer than the colour printer in our house (I have to actually hook the computer up to the colour printer, whereas the laser is accessible from anywhere around the house - did I mention Raymond is also a computer genius?), so I started making black and white labels that looked like apothecary type labels. I love this style - if I ever had a business, I'd find it hard to choose between this style and the funky retro obnoxious type patterns with lime green and hot pink I normally love.

I found the idea from Slightly Off-Center (click here for her amazing labels), and I used her labels as templates originally - this is my beard conditioner "Hey Beardo". But I needed a larger one. So I went into The Print Shop 2 software and chose a frame that I liked. Then I found a line that had a decorative end. It's nothing fancy, but I'm happy with it. For the Hey Beardo, I added the instructions and ingredients on a separate label on the back of the container (but didn't think to take a picture of it).

I can't remember where I found the suggestions for these fonts, but visit DaFont.com and download Mouse Deco, EcuyerDAX, and Masquerade for some great old timey looking fonts.

Some links to great label templates can be found here.

Read More

Creating products: Packaging and preservation

Originally posted on October 14, 2010...

I've written a lot about packaging in the past, but I'd like to share with you a study I read recently on the value of packaging and preservation.

When we're packaging our products, we need to think of the end user, how she will treat the product once it reaches her house or car. We need to consider how she might contaminate the product, especially those found in jars or screw top containers.

This study used poorly and well preserved products to maximize the contamination of the products. The chart on page two of the PDF should make you shudder. The contamination of both the unpreserved lotion and shampoo on day one found levels too numerous to count!

This study tested the contamination of shampoo with three different caps - the screw cap, the flip top, and the slit cap (or disc cap). The screw cap containers had the most contamination (29%) followed by the slit cap (21%) and the flip top (0%).

The study also tested contamination of lotions with three different caps - the screw cap, the flip cap and pump. The screw cap tested very poorly (79%), the flip cap tested poorly as well (39%), and while the pump tested the lowest (10%).

So what does this mean for us? It means we need to preserve our products well with a good and reliable preservative, add an anti-oxidant to retard rancidity, and follow good manufacturing practices like heating and holding for everything we make. And it means we need to choose our packaging well. Leave the screw caps for maple syrup and other cooking goodies, and go with the disc cap, flip top, or pump every time. Malibus might be a good choice - they didn't study those - as it's unlikely your end user will leave it open for the beasties to feast!

An aside on cap types...originally posted July 16, 2009

Again, form should follow function when it comes to caps. What are you dispensing?

Disc cap: Ah, the humble disc cap. It's good for pretty much every product with its tiny opening that allows surfactants, lotions, toners, and all your other products to come out with a squish! It's not great for thick lotions - like a foot lotion - or sugar scrubs.

Good for: Thin to medium lotions, surfactant mixtures, toners, serums, shampoo, conditioner, leave in conditioner.

Not good for: Thick lotions, sugar scrubs, anyhydrous creams or butters.

Downside: Could be hard to get every drop of lotion out of the bottom.

Upside: Readily available, works with almost every product.

Verdict: A staple of your bottle collection as it will work with almost everything.

Pump bottle: You can generally find two types of pumps at the supply shop - the treatment pump and the regular pump. The treatment pump is intended for smaller bottles and products you might want to use sparingly - serums, facial moisturizers, expensive lotions - and you'll generally find them on bottles 4 ounces/120 ml or smaller.

The larger pumps are great for thin and thick lotions, surfactant mixtures, and anything else you want to dose out. They work well when you might be going back for more - for instance, for foot lotion - because you don't get the container incredibly messy! They are simply not suitable for something like a toner - something primarily made of water - because they won't pump it out properly.

Good for: Lotions, creams, surfactant mixtures, hair care products.

Not good for: Watery creations, sugar scrubs, anhydrous butters.

Downside: More expensive than disc caps. Not suitable for thick scrubs.

Upside: Get out every last drop.

Verdict: Pump bottles are great, but can add up to $1.00 to the cost of a bottle.

Spray cap: I do love the spray cap. It's ideal for thin, water creations like summer or cooling sprays when you want to cover a larger area or don't feel like rubbing something in all that well. I love it for toners and other facial products - spray on, wipe off, you're done! If you want to monitor your dosage of the product - leave in conditioners, for instance - it's a great way to ensure you don't use too much as you get a little tired pumping the spray! They're great for products using oil or cyclomethicone bases (like perfumes or body sprays) as well.

Good for: Water creations, like thin lotions, leave in conditioners, anti-frizz serums, perfumes, all liquid oil creations (like an after bath spray).

Not good for: Medium to thick lotions, sugar scrub, anhydrous butters.

Downside: Sprayers can be expensive. Not suitable for thick creations, like lotions.

Upside: It sprays!

Verdict: Sprayers are fantastic for products that contain at least 80% to 90% liquids.

You can use turret caps - the ones that you have to lift up - for various things, but I find them a little hard to find. I like to use those for very liquidy things like toner or thin lotions. And orifice bottles, which are suitable for dispensing essential oils or serums.

And this brings me to jars! I love jars for my body butters, intense conditioners, scrubs. and whipped butters, but there's a good chance the end user - which is mostly me and my friends - will contaminate it somehow. Good instructions on your jars - wash hands before using, do not let water drip into the scrub, do not let the dog lick it - can help ensure your end user is using the product the right way. But let's be honest, there have been times when you want to slather on a little body butter before going to bed and you haven't washed your hands in a few hours...what do you do there? Good preserving won't wash away all your sins, but it will certainly ensure you see numbers that aren't too numerous to count when it comes to contaminant counts!

Packaging links...
Choosing the right container for your product. 
Alternatives to bottles.
Closures.
Non-container options and labelling.

Read More

Creating products: Filling our bottles

Original post from July 13, 2009, modified today...

Filling containers can be such a huge pain in the bum! Here are a few things I thought I'd share...

Since I'm a surfactant junkie, I make a lot of bubble baths, body washes, and shampoos that need bottling. I find the easiest way is to get a funnel and pour it in. With a tottle or malibu bottle, I put the bottle into a Pyrex container and then pour it into the funnel. This keeps at least one hand free to clean up messes or get another bottle ready. (I try to have quite a few ready at a given time because once that funnel's full, I gotta move on very quickly!)

I find the bane of my existence is filling lotion containers. I always wait until the lotion has cooled completely before filling the bottles, and it's always a huge mess. I've taken to using piping bags - I have disposable and canvas ones - and I find these work well. I did try to use the cut-a-hole-in-a-sandwich-bag method, but I found I made a huge mess. (But then again, I am a very messy person, so it's not a surprise!)

I've tried using a syringe (sans needle) to fill the bottles and it worked very well. Syringe into container, suck up product, squish into bottle. The only problem is that the largest syringe I could find was 60 ml or about 1/4 cup. Fine for smaller bottles, not so much for larger ones as I found myself going back for more four or five times! It was great for topping off a container, like adding that extra teaspoon to a bottle! 

Again, line up the containers so you're ready, fill your piping bag, and go down the line. I usually fill them up about 3/4, then bang on the table to get the air out, then top it off. This is the annoying part - just as I think I've got a full container, I find another air bubble and have to top it off again!

If you're selling your products, you might have to weigh them before you cap them off. As I'm just giving mine away or keeping it for myself, I'm not that picky about bubbles or weights! 

I like filling jars...it's so easy! Scoop, bang on the table, and cap. If you want your jars to be very fancy, you can put these jar disk liners (also called dust covers or jar liners) on top of the product, then put the cap on it. When your friend/family member/customer opens it, she'll see this white cap making the product look very fancy and proper! 

If you have any suggestions, please comment! There are so many ways to fill bottles poorly, any ideas for doing it well are always welcome! (There are some great ideas in the original post, so I encourage you to check that out! But please comment as we're always looking to share great ideas!) 

Read More

Creating products: Alternatives to bottles!

Original post from July 14, 2009...Alternatives to bottles! 

I know a malibu or tottle bottle isn't really an alternative to a "bottle" because we consider them to be a bottle, but they are a fantastic way to package hair care products, surfactant systems, and lotions. They're also cheaper than using a pump bottle for thick creams, but you do run the risk of getting the lotion all over the bottle when you go back for more.

They are not great for sugar scrubs or whipped butters. Many have tried, few have succeeded. It would be nice, but those products clog up the orifice and lead to heart break. They do not work for liquid products, like toners, as they'll leak out. They are generally made of HDPE, which means they shouldn't contain a ton of essential oils, but they are easier to squeeze. So if you want to get out every last drop, consider the malibu or tottle bottle.

As a final note, they are kind of annoying to fill because you can never get that last bit at the top filled! If you don't want to hear about how you didn't give someone a full bottle of product, consider getting the opaque bottles!

For thick lotions, body butters, anhydrous whipped butters, balms, sugar scrubs, and anything too thick for a bottle, consider the humble jar. So many uses, so many sizes, and so many reasons to use a jar.

Jars are generally cheaper than bottles, and they come in a variety of sizes. They generally have the same shape, but you can choose from a domed cap or a flat cap (this is the domed cap to the right). You can choose from frosted, white, or clear or double or singled walled. There are advantages to each, and most of the time it is a personal choice.

The clear jars tend to be made of PET, which means they are suitable for products with high levels of essential oils. The frosted jars tend to be made of polypropylene, so they can withstand high temperatures, and they would be suitable for some essential oil levels, but not high ones.

What's the point of using single vs. double walled jars? I really haven't found any good reasoning behind using either. I tend to use the double walled jars because I can find them easier and they look nice. I'm sure there are reasons like the ability to fill them at higher temperatures, but I'm not filling at high temperatures, so that point is moot to me.

Jars are always a lovely thing to have around the workshop. You can put most anything in a jar - thick hair conditioners, bubble goo, thick creams, thick lotions, body butters, anhydrous whipped butters, balms, and so on - except for products like toner or spray on perfumes. You can get smaller jars for lip balms, solid perfumes, and balms.

Should you go low profile or regular opening? I like low profile for sugar scrubs: It's easy to scoop a handful out when you're in a rush to get some lovely scrubby action! Low profile is generally more expensive, and the ones I've found tend to be clear PET jars rather than frosted, double walled HDPE jars. (Not that this makes a difference, but if you're a fan of the frosted jar, it might be harder to find.)

And consider investing in some dust covers for your jars. They look nice when the person opens the jar, and they will keep the contents from sloshing all over the place.

A note on glass jars: They look awesome and decorative and you have many choices, but they aren't a good choice if you have to place them somewhere they might break. The bathtub is not the ideal location for a glass container. If they slip and fall, this could be dangerous. Glass is, however, great for bath salts and other things that need to retain its smell, and they can be found very cheaply at thrift or bargain stores.

Metallic containers - slip tins, little round tins - always look really cool, but they are only good for products that do not contain water. So lip balms, balms, and whipped butters are awesome here. Do not use them for anything that might come into contact with water, like sugar scrubs. I learned that lesson the hard way...EEW!

Original post from July 20, 2009...Non-container packaging!
I like products that don't need a container! Shampoo and conditioner bars, lotion bars, bath bombs - I can find cute ways to dress them up and it's not going to cost me a fortune! I have a small problem when I walk into Essential Packaging in Surrey - even though I have no idea what I could put into the boxes, I really do want every single container in there, especially the lime green ones!

Cellophane bags are fantastic. I like to have the 4 oz, 8 oz, and 1 lb sizes around the house, just in case I need them. I like to package bath bombs, bath salts, and, as you can see from the picture to the left, little kits of things to give away. (Also great for cookies and chocolates!) I like to use cute twist ties (Daiso is awesome for this, or try your local chocolate making store) or ribbons as closures.

Note...I've tried "cellophane" bags from the dollar store, but they aren't cellophane...and they kill the scent!

I know you can use plastic sandwich bags for this task - but beware! Sandwich bags are made out of polyethylene plastic, and this can kill your fragrance and essential oils quickly. I learned this the hard way - 20 bags of bath salts for a class, and not a single one smelled like anything!

I love Daiso, the Japanese $2 store! If you have one near you, check out their selection of sushi and onigiri packaging. It's great for things like bath cupcakes or beeswax candles (especially ones that look like sushi)! It's inexpensive - 8 or 12 or 16 for $2! - and it looks pretty cool. Check out their twist ties, cellophane bags, and silicone molds. Their cookie and chocolate mold section is great for cute things!

For bath cupcakes, I like to re-use small cupcake containers (we get them for Games Night, so we always have some around the house). I realize it means I have to give someone 12 fizzing cupcakes, but is that a bad thing?

Bonus! Here's a link to some great aged labels for spices, but they would look cool on amber bottles! And this link has a ton of apothecary style labels. I love these!

Read More

Creating products: Packaging - too many choices!

Packaging our products is more than just putting them in a pretty bottle! We have a few things to consider, such as what we're packaging in the bottle and what kind of plastic we need for specific products. Here are two posts from the past to give you some things to think about when it comes to packaging!

(Originally posted July 11, 2009) With so much to choose from, how do you choose the right bottle or jar for your products?

Consider a few things before choosing a container...

1. Cost: If you need 1 or 2 containers, then a penny here or there isn't going to make a huge difference. But if you need 100, 5 cents can change your mind very quickly. Shop around - take into consideration shipping costs and whether you need to buy caps separately - before buying.

2. Product functionality: A toner is going to leak out of your malibu or tottle bottle, and a pump bottle isn't the best choice for a thick sugar scrub.

3. Usage by humans: Consider you're going to use your product. Will you use it in a slippery shower with wet hands or leave it in a purse for days on end? How much shelf or night-side table space do you want to give up to this product? Are you going to be going back for more or will you be able to apply enough with one squirt or pump? Is there another way to apply this product?

I like to package my toner in a spray bottle. I saw this being done when I attended a "spa party" by a big company that will remain nameless. Although I wanted to scream at all the inaccuracies being spouted by the saleswoman, I thought it was a good idea, meaning I didn't have to pour toner on a cotton pad before applying. I always use too much and that's wasteful! By switching to a spray bottle, I can spritz my face and let it evaporate or use a cotton ball.

I like to package my sugar scrubs in a low profile jar. I started using them because someone gave me a few and I found it mad it easier to get into the product and get a lot of it when I was in the shower.

And I stopped packaging my foot lotion in the malibu containers because I realized I was always going back for more after the first application, but my hands were really sticky and greasy and it made getting the product out a pain in the bum. Plus the container was then really sticky and greasy. So I switched to a pump bottle - it's a little more expensive, but I can put it in a really big pump bottle, and I don't make my normal horrible mess.

4. Prettiness: This is always a factor. If I'm making my 1 litre of leave in conditioner, I'm going to choose something functional for storage. But when I give it to someone, I want to have a lovely bottle that shows off the contents. I need to apply labels, so I need something that is going to be fairly normal shaped so the labels don't warp or buckle.

The adjunct to prettiness is perception. Take these two bottles - the one on the right is a 250 ml cosmo oval bottle. The one on the left is a 500 ml Boston round. Now if you pick them up, you'll know the Boston round is heavier and larger than the other. But just sitting on a shelf, it may appear that one costs more than the other but is slightly smaller!

5. Interchangeability: When I'm buying a larger number of bottles, I consider if the caps are interchangeable with other bottles because I never know if I want a disc cap, turret, spray, or pump cap.

6. Your ingredients: Essential and fragrance oils are not going to play nice with many plastics. You've no doubt noticed this! They're fine in small quantities, but if you're making a fancy perfume or roll on that contains - say - 20% fragrance or essential oils, considering using glass instead.

7. Brand unity: If you're selling things, you might have a specific colour, size, or shape that says you!

I like the cosmo oval bottle for most applications. It's not very costly, and I like the look of it because it's nice and tall and shows off the clarity of a surfactant system nice (although it also highlights when it's not so clear!). It fits nicely in my hand when I'm using it as a spray. And I find it works well in the shower when I need to squeeze out the last drop of body wash with slippery hands! I find it easy to change the caps around when I need something different, and they store well in the giant box I use to store bottles.

I like the tottle bottle for in shower body wash or shampoo, and lotions where I won't be needing to apply more after the first dose.

Sizewise, I find I use 4 oz bottles and jars the most (although I like sugar scrubs in 8 oz containers so I can go crazy with it in the shower!) because I tend to like to change out scents and ingredients. Four ounces is a nice size for a body wash for a few weeks or for hand lotion for a few months. (And I find a 4 oz leave in conditioner is a very good size - any larger than that, and I tend to drop it regularly. But then again, I am a serious klutz!)

Here's a great post on the CPS blog - 5 packaging know-hows! A good read if you are thinking about how to package yourself for sales!

Finally...storage. I have no idea how to store bottles well. I keep them in bags and boxes and everywhere I have space. You'll want to keep them in a safe place where they won't be covered in dust and spiders (EEEEK!!!!) and you'll want to keep them handy so you can do an occasional inventory before creating something - 'cause there's nothing worse than finding out the only bottles you have on hand are tiny 2 ounces with sprays for a sugar scrub!

(Originally posted July 12, 2009) You've chosen a shape, but have you considered the composition of your bottle? We have tons of different plastics to choose from, but each has their advantage. Most of these can't be filled at over 160F, but we aren't going to be bottling anything that warm, are we?

HDPE: High density polyethylene - Good for everything, unless you're using a ton of essential oils

HDPE usually comes as a translucent, flexible bottle that is compatible with just about everything. (Look right - the frosted or the completely white bottles tend to be HDPE). Except things with a lot of essential oils. If you've ever put something high in essential oils - 1% in a lotion is just fine - you'll see it start to buckle and warp. Not a good idea. And don't put anything over 160F into this bottle! You can squeeze and drop it without creating huge dents.

When you find the white bottles that I tend to think of as storage bottles, those are HDPE as well. Great for shampoos, conditioners, and the like.

PET: Polyethylene terephthalate - Good for products containing a lot of alcohol or essential oils, as well as pretty much everything else.

You'll recognize this one from pop bottles. They work well for alcohols and essential oils. These aren't very squeezable and tend to dent from dropping or pressing. You can find PET bottles in every shape and size - Cosmo oval, Boston round, bullet (the picture to the right), and so on.

PVC: Polyvinyl chloride - Good for squeezing and good resistance to oils.

Good resistance to oils, but general more expensive. These are used a lot for shampoos and conditioners. They are squeezable, which makes them appealing for hair care products or other products when you want to get out every drop. Very good for small, sample sized bottles as well because you can squeeze it nicely. (And it uses less petroleum than the other bottles, so it may be considered slightly more environmentally friendly than the other bottles.)

LDPE: Low density polyethylene - Less chemically resistant than HDPE, good for squeezing.

These are much softer bottles and less chemically resistant than HDPE. They tend to be translucent, and are intended for squeezy applications.

Good for...when you need to get every drop out of a bottle.

Having said all of this, I still prefer using glass or aluminum bottles for something with lots of essential oils, but that's my preference.

Check out this great post at CPS Plasticology 101 for more, in-depth information on packaging!

Read More

Labels - a free download

I've been asked to post my recent labels as a PDF, so here you are. (I have instructions on how to modify them in the PDF). I don't know how useful they will be as they are designed to fit on the bottles I own, but if you like them, then I'm a happy camper!

It's so much easier to use the laser printer than the colour printer in our house (I have to actually hook the computer up to the colour printer, whereas the laser is accessible from anywhere around the house - did I mention Raymond is also a computer genius?), so I started making black and white labels that looked like apothecary type labels. I love this style - if I ever had a business, I'd find it hard to choose between this style and the funky retro obnoxious type patterns with lime green and hot pink I normally love.

I found the idea from Slightly Off-Center (click here for her amazing labels), and I used her labels as templates originally - this is my beard conditioner "Hey Beardo". But I needed a larger one. So I went into The Print Shop 2 software and chose a frame that I liked. Then I found a line that had a decorative end. It's nothing fancy, but I'm happy with it. For the Hey Beardo, I added the instructions and ingredients on a separate label on the back of the container (but didn't think to take a picture of it).

I can't remember where I found the suggestions for these fonts, but visit DaFont.com and download Mouse Deco, EcuyerDAX, and Masquerade for some great old timey looking fonts.

Here's more information on how I make labels - part 1 and part 2.

Read More

Aesthetics of our products: Label making - an example

So here's an example of a label I use on my foot scrub bars. I package these in cellophane bags and close it with the label.

I like to include three major pieces of information - the name of the product and fragrance, instructions for use (if it isn't obvious), and a simplified ingredient list. (If you're selling your products, the simplified list isn't an option - please check your local authorities for their requirements.)

I try to use a really legible font for the instructions and ingredient list - in this case, I'm using American Typewriter in 8 point - with a cute font for the name. I generally make the background a little more opaque - I turn the opacity on the picture to 50% to 70%, depending upon the colour scheme - and I tend to make the background for the instructions and ingredient list white so it's easy to read.

Why the instructions? Sometimes it isn't obvious what to do with a product - I've seen the foot scrub bar and my sugar scrub used as facial products, despite the description of what it is and the instructions - so I find it best to include some guidelines on usage, especially for something like a foot scrub bar where someone could use it in the shower and slip! I like to write a little story in this section, something to whet the user's interest, and I tend to use a ton of adjectives (which might be a little cheesy, but anyone who knows me knows I love cheesiness!).

Here's an example of my Manly Man Body Wash label. I put the ingredients on a little label I put on the back of the bottle so as to preserve the minimalist nature of the presentation. I figure men aren't into hearts and flowers so much, and I needed a label that shouted "I am body wash! Use me and smell manly!" I think this might be my favourite label.

I do have a girls' version of the Super Girl Action Wash with the warning that it "should only be used by girls who want to be super heroes when they grow up!" because I figure we all secretly long for an invisible airplane and lasso or a stake like Mr. Pointy and the ability to take on six ninjas in a fight without breaking a nail.

Join me tomorrow for something completely different!

Read More

Aesthetics of our products: Label making

Tara made this comment in this post: I love the pictures you post of your products. Maybe somewhere down the road, you could do a post on label making.


I admit the aesthetics of our products is not one of my strengths. I'm the mechanic - I figure out the formulas, create the recipes, tweak the products, and so on - and despite my love of English, I suck at creating cute or interesting names. And don't get me started on my inability to take nice photographs! But I do like to create what I consider nice labels.

I consider putting labels on my products essential because I need to know which version of which product I'm using. I generally write out the labels by hand for around the house (which is why you don't see a lot of them), but when I'm gifting my products, I want to make my labels lovely (and believe me, my handwriting is neither lovely nor legible).

I generally invest in full sheet labels because I can put a ton of different labels on one sheet and cut them out when I feel like it. Ensure you have the right type for your printer - you can use laser labels on inkjet, but you can't use inkjet on a laser printer. If you can't get the full sheet labels or don't feel like cutting them all out, I find the 4 x 2 shipping labels to be the most multifunctional for my needs because I can make them smaller as necessary. I've tried Avery and I've tried generic Staples' labels - the Staples' ones were just awful and I took them back the next day, so I have to suggest Avery.

I use Printshop for the Mac for my labels, but you can use any program that makes labels in the right size. Microsoft Word works okay, but I've found it can sometimes be a little off and you have to make sure your labels are well within the boundaries when you're creating them on the screen. (Your experience may vary by printer and ability to make a nice label!)

I can't draw or design a label to save my life, so I find interesting backgrounds, wallpapers (computer and real life), or pictures of fabrics to create a nice backdrop. Digital scrapbooking papers are fantastic for backgrounds, and you can find some great free kits out there. I love the Shabby Princess downloads and I covet the Pixel Decor tiles (very retro!). I collect fonts, and I admit I tend towards the retro. You can find great free fonts at the Font Diner (I love the diner fonts and holiday leftovers!) and Dafont.com for my fonts, but you can find some great ones at scrapbooking sites.

When you're gifting a product, you don't need to use the INCI names because that can get a little confusing for your giftee. I tend to use the proper names for things like my oils, but I will use the generic name for my surfactants. I will put in brackets what the ingredient might be - for instance, liquid Germall Plus (preservative) - because I want my giftee to know what's in the product and I won't assume they know Latin!

If you're making products for sale, ensure you are following the labelling laws in your county, state, province, area, region, or country! And make sure you're using royalty free images. 

There are a few ways to make your labels waterproof. I used to have an Epsom printer with waterproof inks and they worked really well. But I've switched to to a Canon Pixma ($30 for an all in one!) and the ink runs. So I use the Krylon product Make it Last, clear sealer, to keep my labels pretty in the shower or bath. I make up my labels, spray them, wait about 10 minutes, then put them on my bottles. (I found mine at Michael's, but apparently you can get it at art stores!)

And now we come to cleaning bottles. I spray mine with rubbing alcohol, wait a second or two, then wipe it off with a paper towel. This ensures you don't have any surfactants or oils or other stuff that will get in the way of the product sticking.

Join me tomorrow for some ideas for designing labels.

Read More

Aesthetics of cosmetic products

The first impression we get of a cosmetic product is with our eyes (especially on-line!). As Mr. Burns says, "You see with your eyes, not with your hands," so a pretty product is one to which we're attracted. I know consumers say they want green, organic, preservative free, and fragrance free products, but the main reasons we buy cosmetic products are threefold - packaging, scent, and what the product says about us.

Which would you rather have? The one on the left or the one on the right? As you've no doubt guessed, the one on the left is the unpackaged finished product, but they are the same thing. It's all about presentation and perception.

Think about the language we use to describe our products. "Whipped cupcake scented shea butter" versus "Shea butter with cupcake fragrance". The word "whipped" always sounds so lovely. (I think it's the same with words like "wild" or "roasted" in food - don't those make you think of something hearty and yummy?)

Compare the two hand soaps I made a little while ago. One of them just screams, "I am moisturizing and emollient and lovely for your hands," and the other one says, "I am a hand cleanser." Using a pearlizer conveys a real sense of being more moisturizing. Think about any dry hair shampoo or moisturizing body wash you've used - odds are pretty good it contained a pearlizer. Just 2% glycol distearate in a product can increase the moisturizing and increase our perception that it moisturizes!

We don't really need thickeners in our surfactant based products - they're there to make the product flow better and make it stay on our hands or poofy scrubby things when we're bathing - but they add to the aesthetics of the product. A thin product would make us think it's not working well, whereas a thick, viscous product makes us think of

I asked my husband this question and he said that a thin product would make him think it had fallen apart whereas a thick product would make him think it was more moisturizing. If he couldn't get it out of the container because it was so viscous, he wouldn't think "well, that's not going to work because I can't get it out of the container", he'd think "that must be the most moisturizing product ever! I must use it now!"

Just a few thoughts for a day when my brain isn't working well thanks to the wonders of decongestants and painkillers! (Avoid this flu! It is pure evil!)

Read More