Sunday 27 March 2011

Using cosmeceuticals in our facial products for oily skin

Oftentimes, oily skinned people sit on the sidelines wishing we could use some of these interesting and exotic cosmeceutical ingredients, knowing that we would break out almost immediately if we added extra oils to our skin. But we can use oil free type moisturizers, so let's take a look at how we can incorporate some of these amazing ingredients into our facial products. (Click here or here for more information and recipes for oil free moisturizers.)

We can use just about any of the cosmeceutical ingredients I've written about in this series of posts because very few of them are oil based. So you'll want to assess your skin's needs and include your ingredients accordingly. I find niacinamide fascinating for oily skin as it claims that it can reduce sebum production and the size of our pores at just 2% in our heated water phase. MSM may reduce oiliness and behave as a humectant at 1% in our heated water phase. If you're worried about aging skin, a little Matrixyl 3000 might help at up to 8% in our cool down phase (we'll use it at 3% to see how our skin likes it), and we can use other ingredients like Pepha-Tight at 3% in the cool down phase or sea kelp bioferment at 2% to 5% in the heated water phase or beta glucan at 2% to 10% in the heated water phase.

I'm going to go with 2% niacinamide, 1% MSM, 3% Matrixyl 3000, and beta glucan at 2% in this recipe, but you can choose any combination you wish. This means I need to remove 8% from my water phase. Feel free to add or remove your favourite or not-so-favourite ingredients from this product, but remember to modify your water phase accordingly!

MODIFIED CATIONIC OIL-FREE MOISTURIZER FOR ACNE PRONE OR ROSACEA TYPE SKIN WITH COSMECEUTICALS
WATER PHASE
10% aloe vera
10% hydrosol of choice
56% water
2% hydrolyzed protein (high molecular weight)
3% honeyquat or polyquat 7
2% sodium lactate or sodium PCA
0.5% allantoin
2% niacinamide
1% MSM
2% beta glucan

OIL PHASE
3% BTMS
2% cetyl alcohol

COOL DOWN PHASE
3% Matrixyl 3000
2% panthenol
0.5% -1% preservative

Use the basic lotion making instructions for this recipe.

There you have it! An oil free moisturizer chock full of beneficial goodness! Join me tomorrow for some ideas on how to use cosmeceuticals in other facial products!

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