Saturday, 8 January 2011

Iron Chemist results: SCI

Last Sunday, my lovely husband chose SCI as the ingredient for this week's Iron Chemist! And here are the results!

SYNDET BODY BAR
50% SCI
33% SLSa
10% cocamidopropyl betaine
3% cocamide DEA
2% glycol distearate
2% fragrance oil

Weigh the SCI and cocamidopropyl betaine in a heatproof container and place into the double boiler. Weigh the cocamide DEA and glycol distearate in a heatproof container and place into the double boiler. Heat both until they are melted. Mix together, and add the SLSa slowly, so you aren't kicking up a lot of dust! Heat until they are nicely melted together and mix well. Add the 2% fragrance oil, then glop into moulds and put in the fridge or freezer. When hardened, remove.

As a note, I was going for a bubble bar here, and it works well in that capacity, but some it will end up floating around in the bath and you'll have to crumble up the last of it with your fingers if you want it to disintegrate completely. The bubbles come fast and furious and last quite some time, but I wouldn't want to call it a bath product if it won't completely dissolve. It's a very hard product, but the bubbles are fairly amazing!

I have been enjoying this body bar in the shower all week. It's very creamy feeling and doesn't make my skin feel dry or tight afterwards. When I make it again - and I will - I'll add some cationic polymer to the mix (3% polyquat 7 or honeyquat) and a humectant (glycerin at 3%) and reduce the SLSa by 6% to make it more body friendly. I didn't put those in the original recipe as I was going for a bubble bar, and I didn't want any humectants to draw water to the product while it sat in the workshop or a plastic bag!

If you're thinking that a syndet body bar is weird, that's what Dove is! It's a syndet bar with "1/4 moisturizing" included. I didn't get to the 25% moisturizing part, but I will next time!

POSSIBLY A FOAMING BATH BUTTER
HEATED SURFACTANT PHASE
32% SCI
17.4% cocamidopropyl betaine
4.5% cocamide DEA
8.7% polyglucose/lactylate blend
8.7% glycerin
4.5% Cromollient SCE

HEATED OIL PHASE
2.5% glycol distearate
4.5% cetyl alcohol
8.7% soy bean oil

COOL DOWN PHASE
2.6% myristamine oxide
4.4% polyquat 7
0.5% liquid Germall Plus
1% fragrance oil

Weigh the heated surfactant phase into a heatproof container and put into the double boiler. Melt until it is kinda liquidy but mixes well. Also weigh the heated oil phase into a heatproof container and put into the double boiler. Melt until it is liquid.

Add the two phases together and mix well. You can add the myristamine oxide and polyquat 7 at any point, but wait until you reach 45˚C before adding the fragrance and preservative.

Mix this very well with a hand mixer - beaters, not whisks! - until it is fluffy. Add some exfoliants if you want.

I call this a possibly foaming bath butter because I have no idea what that product feels like, but that's what it seems like to me. It's foamy and fluffy and feels very nice on my skin when I've used it in the shower. If you don't have the Cromollient SCE or myristamine oxide, don't worry - you can use some other water soluble esters, if you want, or increase your liquid surfactant amount.

In case you're curious about the weird amounts in this recipe, it's because I started off making one recipe, then changed it when I realized it was hardening far too fast, so I had to re-calculate the amounts to make them add up to 100%. 

Here are a few of my favourite recipes using SCI (but not created this week!)
Conditioning shampoo for dry hair
Conditioning shampoo for normal to oily hair
Solid shampoo bars for all hair types (visual tutorial)
Shampoo bars for dry hair
Shampoo bars for oily hair
Body wash with polyglucose/lactylate blend & salicylic acid
Body wash with SCI
Creamy, moisturizing body wash with SCI and esters
Creamy facial cleanser for dry skin
Creamy facial cleanser for normal skin

Join me tomorrow as our chairman chooses the third Iron Chemist ingredient!

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