I suggested this recipe as a possible duplication yesterday...
POSSIBLE DUPLICATION OF THE CURL JUNKIE DAILY FIX CLEANSING CONDITIONER WITH CATIONIC GUAR AND OAT FLOUR (VERSION 1.0)
HEATED WATER PHASE
0.25% cationic guar
0.25% hydrolyzed oat flour
80.5% water (replace with hydrosols of choice)
2% cocamidopropyl betaine
2% PEG-7 olivate
HEATED OIL PHASE
7% BTMS-50
3.5% cetearyl alcohol
2% cetrimonium chloride
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% powdered extract of choice
0.5% powdered extract of choice
0.5% to 1% preservative
1% fragrance or essential oil
...but I'd like to suggest a few alternatives.
If you don't have or like cationic guar or hydrolyzed oat flour, may I suggest using up to 2% cationic polymers for the cationic guar (polyquat 10 or polyquat 44 are the most easily removed from our hair, and both can be used at up to 0.5% in our products), and using one of the hydrolyzed proteins at up to 2% in the heated water phase. If you increase one of your ingredients, remove the same amount from the water in the heated water phase. (Honeyquat's a nice ingredient at 3% in the cool down phase as it offers conditioning and behaves as a humectant!)
If you want to use this as a regular conditioner, not a cleansing conditioner, the one change I'd suggest would be to remove the cocamidopropyl betaine and increase your water by 2%. (Although I really don't think you'd notice 2% cocamidopropyl betaine in this product all that much, why add something that isn't necessary?)
If you want to use cetrimonium bromide, feel free to substitute it for the BTMS-25 or BTMS-50 in this product. You could also add it about 3% or so to the product and remove 3% from the water amount.
If you don't have PEG-7 olivate, you can substitute another water soluble oil - water soluble shea is very nice, as is water soluble aloe oil, but any one will do - or you could just add some oils you like. The BTMS-50 will emulsify any oils you add to this product, so you could use something like sunflower oil, avocado oil, sea buckthorn oil, or even coconut oil (which should be our first choice for hair care products as it's inexpensive and very effective).
If you want some humectant or film formers in the product, add a hydrosol, witch hazel, or aloe vera to the mix. Start at 10% (remove 10% from the water amount) and see if you like it. I'm actually surprised there aren't any humectants in this product as most of the people I've met who co-wash or go no-poo have dry hair, and dry hair loves it some humectants! 3% glycerin, 10% aloe vera, propylene glycol or another glycol, silk protein, and panthenol are all great ingredients for dry hair to increase the moisturization levels of your hair!
So there are a few ideas for how to modify this conditioner - or, indeed, any conditioner! There isn't anything special about this conditioner in its abilities to clean your hair and there isn't a specific reason I chose this one to focus on for a few days, just that it seemed like it was basic enough to put up with a little tweaking!
When you're duplicating your products, keep in mind which ingredients can substitute for other ones. If you don't have hydrolyzed oat flour, use hydrolyzed oat protein. If you don't have that, consider another hydrolyzed protein like wheat, soy, silk, and corn as an option. You aren't limited to those ingredients in the recipe or on the label. And when you learn which ingredients do what, you can go wild with substitutions!
Join me tomorrow for more formulating fun!
0 comments:
Post a Comment