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Aqua (Water) (Water), Astrocaryum Murumuru (Palm Tree) Butter, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Shea butter), Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil (Olive), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil (Jojoba), Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet almond), Cetearyl Olivate (Source Olive Oil), Alcohol Denatured, Sorbitan Olivate (Source Olive Oil), Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cera Alba (Beeswax) (Beeswax), Xanthan Gum , Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Citrus Auranitium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil (Bergamot), Limonene, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Linalool, Rosa Damascena (Bulgarian Rose) Flower Oil, Citronellol, Geraniol
Aqua (Water): Our solvent.
Astrocaryum Murumuru (Palm Tree) Butter: This is known as palm tree seed butter or murumuru butter. It has a an interesting fatty acid profile with 1.85% caprylic acid (C8), 1.85% capric (C10), 47.5% lauric acid (C12), 26% myristic acid (C14), 6% palmitic acid (C16), 2.5% stearic acid (C18), 12.5% oleic acid (C18:1), and 3% linoleic acid (C18:2). It has a melting point of 25˚C to 37˚C, making it more like coconut oil than cocoa butter. (Actually it has almost the same lauric acid level as coconut oil, and almost the same melting point.)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter): A thick, greasy feeling butter that has an up to 2 year shelf life.
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil: Olive oil is a medium to heavy weight feeling oil with a greasy skin feel, a lot of oleic acid, and a shelf life of up to a year.
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil: Technically it's a wax with a two year shelf life.
Glycerin: A good humectant.
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (Sweet almond): A light emollient with a 9 to 12 month life span.
Cetearyl Olivate (Source Olive Oil): Combined with sorbitan olivate, this makes up Olivem 1000 emulsifier. (Click here for the data sheet or here for more information from Lotioncrafter.) As Olivem 1000, it would be used at 3% to 8% in a lotion or cream.
Alcohol Denatured: Alcohol (ethanol) to which something has been added to make it undrinkable.
Sorbitan Olivate (Source Olive Oil): Also known as sorbitan olivate, it is a low HLB emulsifier (4.3) that can be combined with a high HLB emulsifier to create an emulsification system. We find it in Olivem 1000 as an emulsifier.
Cetearyl Alcohol: A fatty alcohol with a thicker and waxier feeling than cetyl alcohol, it will thicken the product.
Glyceryl Stearate: A low HLB emulsifier (3.8) that can be combined with a high HLB emulsifier to create an emulsification system. Generally used at 2% or lower.
Cera Alba (Beeswax): Used to thicken and make things more waterproof.
Xanthan Gum: Used at 0.1% to 0.3% to thicken lotions.
Sodium Benzoate: A preservative. It converts to benzoic acid, which is a good anti-microbial and fungicidal preservative, when it's in an acidic mixture. (Benzoic acid isn't very water soluble, so we use the sodium benzoate in water so it will dissolve and become benzoic acid.) Sodium benzoate is bacteriostatic, which means it limits the growth of bacteria by messing with its metabolism, but doesn't kill it. It is also a recognized fungicidal ingredient.
Potassium Sorbate: A preservative. It's effective against yeasts, fungi, and molds, but isn't great for bacteria, although it has some effect.
Citric Acid: A chelating, anti-oxidizing, pH adjusting ingredient.
Citrus Auranitium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil (Bergamot): Essential oil.
Limonene, Linalool, Cintrollelo, and Geraniol: Components of essential or fragrance oils.
Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil: Rose geranium essential oil.
Rosa Damascena (Bulgarian Rose) Flower Oil: Essential oil.
So what kind of product is this? It's an oil in water lotion using Olivem 1000 as the emulsifier. You can't get this consistency using just butters - it's the water, glycerin, and xanthan gum that makes it feel the way it does.
As a note, a body butter can be all butters, butters and oils, or a lotion - there's no real definition for what a body butter must be.
I'm not adding the alcohol as it can be quite drying. If you want a cooling feeling from the product, consider using witch hazel distillate (one without alcohol) - it will evaporate and feel cool but it won't be as drying in the product. If you really want to use alcohol, substitute it for the witch hazel in the possible duplicate recipe.
Is there anything we should include? I prefer to use a broad spectrum preservative because sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate aren't great against bacteria, so I'd use something like liquid Germall Plus, Germaben II, Liquipar Optima, Optiphen ND, or Phenonip at the suggested amount in the cool down phase.
So let's take a look at a possible duplication of Boots Organic Rich Body Butter!
POSSIBLE DUPLICATION OF BOOTS ORGANIC RICH BODY BUTTER
HEATED WATER PHASE
60% water
5% witch hazel
3% glycerin
HEATED OIL PHASE
5% murumuru butter
5% shea butter
5% olive oil
5% jojoba oil
2% sweet almond
2% cetearyl alcohol
1% beeswax
6.25% emulsifier
COOL DOWN PHASE
0.5% to 1% preservative of choice
0.5% to 1% essential oils
0.2% xanthan gum (optional)
0.2% citric acid (if necessary to bring down the pH)
This doesn't total exactly 100% because of the optional xanthan gum and citric acid as well as the differences in preservatives. Use the basic lotion making instructions for this recipe.
I realize that I'm using more emulsifier than would be used in the original recipe, but I'm following the 25% rule for Polawax. There are different rules for different emulsifiers.
As with any starting duplicate recipe, play with it to see what you like. I have no idea what this product feels like, but if you want it to be thicker, you can increase the butters and increase the cetearyl alcohol (although that will make it feel more waxy).
Join me tomorrow for more fun duplicating products when we take a look at Lush's 9 to 5 oil cleanser.
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