Friday 29 April 2011

Duplicating products: Pear & Poppy Seed Microderm Polisher

In the duplicating products post, Lana asked if we could duplicate this product, the Pear & Poppy Seed Microderm Polisher...

Pyrus Communis (Pear) Pulp, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Pulp, Pyrus Communis (Pear) Juice, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Juice, Papaver Somniferum (Poppy) Seed, Juglans Regia (Fine Walnut) Exfoliant, Silica, Vegetable Glycerin, Cyamopsis Tetragnoloba (Guar) Gum, Plantago Lanceolata (Plantain) Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea), Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Alfalfa, Mica, Glycolic Acid, Vegetable Squalene, Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10), Tocopheryl Actate (Vitamin E), Ascorbyl Palmitate (Vitamin C Ester), Glycine Soya (Soybean) Oil

And honestly, I don't think we can. If you take a look at the list, it's filled with all kinds of fruit juices and pulps, but we don't see a good preservative in there. Yes, we could make it and use our own preservatives and keep it in the fridge and use it for a week, but making something like this at home will result in a really ugly product (think about what an apple looks like when the inside is exposed to oxygen!) that won't be good for more than a few hours. We see some oils in there - apricot kernel, squalene, Vitamin E, Ascorbyl Palmitate, and soy bean oil - but there's no emulsifier.

If you really want to try making this product, here's a thought...Remove all those pulps and juices out of the mix and start with the ingredient list around the glycerin (we'll add the exfoliants later). The key to this recipe is the guar gum. We need to hydrate it before using it in our products, so it's suggested that you sprinkle the guar gum over your room temperature water phase, stick blend or mix well, then leave to sit for about 15 minutes or so or until it is well hydrated (you'll be able to tell because it creates a gel). Then you can add your other water phase ingredients like aloe vera, hydrosols, proteins, and so on and heat and hold as usual. The usage suggested ranges between 0.3% to 5%, so you'll have to do some playing to figure out the best usage for your product. Guar can emulsify small amounts of oils, and looking at the ingredient list, if the maximum usage for guar is 5%, then we can see that everything that comes below it would be at 5% or less.

If we used each of the oils at 1% or less (1% apricot kernel, 1% squalane, 0.5% Vitamin E, 0.5% Ascorbyl Palmitate, 0.5% soy bean oil), then we might just have enough guar gum (if we use 5%) to emulsify those things. Try making this product, then add the various exfoliants and cosmeceuticals and see if you like it. Make sure you preserve this properly - see this section for information on preservatives and usage rates - and don't try it with the fruit juices!

Sorry I couldn't be more helpful here, but I really don't see how this product is possible with all those ready to go bad juices and pulps. But I think you could make a nice scrub with the guar gum, some exfoliants, and some oils. (As a note, I think the green colour comes from the alfalfa they're using and not the actual juices and pulps, and perhaps from the mica.)

If you want to make a suggestion for a product we could try duplicating, please click on this link and make a comment! Please include the ingredient list from a reputable source and a link to the product so I don't have to search all over the 'net for it! 

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