Ingredient list: Deionized Water, Mineral Oil, Lanolin, Beeswax, Petrolatum Sodium Benzoate, Sorbitan Oleate, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA, Methylparaben, Propylparabean, Imidazolidine Urea, Fragrance, Red 33
Water: Our solvent.
Mineral oil: An emollient.
Lanolin: An emollient from sheep that offers serious moisturizing and water repellency. Can take up to double its weight in water, so it helps with emulsification.
Beeswax: Thickens our products and can make the lotion more tenacious.
Petrolatum: A thicker emollient than mineral oil from hydrocarbons.
Sodium benzoate: A bacteriostatic preservative, meaning it prevents bacteria from growing as opposed to killing them. Best at pH 5 or under.
Sorbitan oleate: Low HLB emulsifier (HLB value 4.3). Combine with a high HLB value emulsifier to create your own system.
Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA: Absorbs UV rays, so it can be considered a sunscreen ingredient.
Methylparaben, propylparaben, imidazolidine urea: Our preservatives.
Fragrance: Makes the product smell pretty.
Red 33: A colourant to make it pink (I'm guessing, based on the name).
So what are the key ingredients in this product? The emollients - petroleum and mineral oil - along with the water, preservatives, and emulsifier. But where the heck is the emulsifier? We can see sorbitan oleate is the low HLB emulsifier, but where's the high HLB one? Lanolin can act as an emulsifier in some situations, but not a great one and not one that would emulsify this recipe. So what do to?
Stop for a moment. I think this list is out of whack because we have the sodium benzoate above the emulsifiers, so this will be more difficult to duplicate.
And I'm really confused at the moment. Read this blurb from this website (which I found when looking for a picture to illustrate this post):
For hair that is healthy, shiny and when styling versatility is a must, Classic Light is the perfect solution. The Classic Light formula is made with aloe vera that penetrates the hair strand with moisture and protects the hair for improved elasticity and less breakage. Absorbs quickly and perfect for daily use! Luster's Pink Classic Light Oil Moisturizer Hair Lotion is specially re-formulated with essential vitamins - Provitamin B5 & Vitamin E - and natural ingredients to restore and maintain healthy hair.
This doesn't make sense based on the list of ingredients from the website Bajan Lilly sent me. Based on the phrase "...is specially re-formulated", I'm wondering if what I have above is an older product? I thought I should search further, and this is what I found....
Deionized Water, Mineral Oil - Paraffinum Liquidum, Lanolin , Beeswax - Cera Alba, Petrolatum, Sodium Borate, Panthenol - Provitamin B5, Tocopherol - Vitamin E, Sorbitan Oleate, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl, PABA, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Imidazolidinyl Urea , Fragrance - Parfum , Hexyl Cinnamal , Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Benzyl Benzoate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Linalool, Geraniol, Citronellol, Benzyl Alcohol, Red 33 - CI 17200
Just curious...where's the aloe vera in this list? And is it really in the right order this time?
So what's different here (and note the comma between dimethyl and PABA, which makes us think it's two different ingredients!)? We see panthenol and Vitamin E in this ingredient list, as well as sodium borate instead of sodium benzoate, which also known as borax.
We can use borax in our products to increase the pH, and I'm not really sure why that's in this product as the pH should be good for hair. It is starting to make me think that this could be a beeswax and borax emulsification system, which you'd use with a water-in-oil lotion, meaning there's more water than oil in the product. Let's try making this as a 50% water product as I don't like messing around with the beeswax and borax emulsifiers, although I think what I'm suggesting might be a little thick based on the fact that the product is found in a disc cap type bottle. (I have never seen this product, let alone tried it, so I'm not sure what the viscosity is of the product.)
You can use any oils you like if you don't want to use mineral oil. I don't know where to get petroleum, so that could be a problem in replicating it exactly. You can substitute another butter in its place - babassu or shea, depending on whether you like your products greasy or dry feeling. I'm thinking shea would be a great substitution for petroleum as it is should get that same level of greasiness. And we're going to use an emulsifier here. I'll use Polawax, but you can use any emulsifier you prefer at the recommended amounts. I will be including the lanolin and beeswax. I'll use panthenol at 2% and Vitamin E at 1% in the cool down phase.
So how much should I use of each ingredient? I'm thinking quite a bit of mineral oil - maybe 20% - 10% lanolin, and about 5% petroleum (shea or babassu). I really don't want to use that much beeswax, so I'm thinking 2% (you can leave it out if you don't want it in your product). So with 37% oil phase, I'll need to use 9.25% emulsifier (25% of my oil phase), for a total oil phase of 46.25%. Add the 2% panthenol, 1% Vitamin E, 0.5% preservative, and 1% fragrance and I have 49.75% non water and 50.75% water! I'm going to add 10% aloe vera because it claims to have it (although we don't see it in the ingredient list), but you can leave that out if your hair hates humectants!
One final note - there are many different weights of mineral oil and we don't know which one they're using here. If they're claiming it will sink in quickly, then we're looking at a light version. I'd substitute fractionated coconut oil or another light oil or ester for the mineral oil. I'm going to use fractionated coconut oil, but you can use any oil you really like.
To summarize, this is a hair lotion with a ton of moisturizing and emollient ingredients.
POSSIBLE DUPLICATION FOR LUSTER'S PINK LIGHT OIL MOISTURIZER (REFORMULATED VERSION)
HEATED WATER PHASE
40.75% water
10% aloe vera
HEATED OIL PHASE
20% mineral oil or other light oil
10% lanolin
5% petroleum, shea, babassu, or other butter
2% beeswax
9.25% emulsifier
COOL DOWN PHASE
2% panthenol
1% Vitamin E
0.5% to 1.5% preservative
1% fragrance oil
Follow the basic lotion making instructions for this product.
I could be completely wrong here. If the product is a lighter product, more liquidy, then you'd want to adjust the water amount to be higher and the oil phase to be lower. If you've used this product, let me know if it's thick or thin and we can adjust the recipe to suit it!
Join me tomorrow for more duplicating fun!
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