Experiments in the workshop: Min-maxed toner becomes a facial gel

The weather outside here is frightful, and I need something more than my toner to protect my skin right now. An oil filled moisturizer isn't an option at the moment as I'm having some fun new break outs on my face, so I thought I'd try making my min-maxed toner into a gel using Amaze XT. (Sorry this picture isn't in a bottle, but it's about -3˚C or 26.6 F in my workshop right now and that's where the bottles and funnels are located. I like the cold, but not that cold!)

I modified the recipe to remove the witch hazel as I'm not a fan of it in my leave on facial products, and I left out the salicylic acid or white willow bark because I'm out of both. (I would have happily included it if I had it!) You'll notice this recipe is in grams - it totals 90 grams because apparently math isn't my strong suit this week! Because the thickening is essential to the recipe, I don't want to modify it to equal 100%, so if you want to double or triple the batch, use the recipe as listed below.

TONER BECOMES GEL MOISTURIZER
HEATED WATER PHASE
15 grams water
20 grams lavender hydrosol
20 grams chamomile hydrosol
10 grams aloe vera
2 grams sodium lactate
2 grams hydrolyzed protein
0.5 grams allantoin
1.5 grams Amaze XT

COOL DOWN PHASE
3 grams honeyquat
5 grams Multifruit BSC
2 grams panthenol
5 grams liquid green tea extract
3 grams Caprol Micro Express or another water soluble oil or ester
0.4 grams liquid Germall Plus

Weigh all the heated phase into a heatproof container and heat until it reaches 60˚C. Hold for about 20 minutes, then add the Amaze XT and remove from the heat. Mix really well until incorporated. Wait until the mixture reaches 45 ˚C to 50˚C, then add the cool down phase. Again, mix really well until incorporated. Yay! You have a gelled toner!

Amaze XT is a form of xanthan gum and you could use that in this recipe, but it will feel a bit stickier. (Click here for some information on gelling ingredients.) You can use carbomer or xanthan gum or your favourite gelling agent for a product of this nature to make the gel.

You can leave out all the hydrosols if you want and use water in their place, and you can include any extracts you like. The key is that you can't use paraben based preservatives with Amaze XT, so make sure you've chosen your preservative wisely!

I really like this product! I've used it two days in a row and it doesn't feel sticky on my skin, but I feel moisturized. You don't want to put a thick layer on your face as it will come off when you rub it, and a thin layer is all you need. Yay! A gelled oil free moisturizer for me in this very cold weather time!